AIA BIKE TOUR / The Weird & Wonderful World of the Thames Path
Fiona Mckay
The last AIA UK live event for 2020 was a movie night held on 10 March, 13 days before ‘lockdown’. Originally scheduled for July, the postponed bike trip was re-organised for 12 September, almost exactly 6 months after the last live event and just 2 days before the ‘rule of 6’ limiting social groups was imposed by the government. We made it just under the wire.
Given the uncertainty about the future direction of the covid pandemic, we still do not know at the time of writing whether this bike trip was a brief interlude in the world of social distancing or a foretaste of normality’s return. Either way, the group was determined to make the best of it.
Waiting in the obscure East London village of Slade Green as the full group gathered, we chatted incessantly about nothing in particular – traffic on the way, zoom headaches, random mother’s advice, frozen pasta, microwave cooking, refrigerator repairs, new bikes and – of course – the lucky, dry weather. And we continued chattering on and off for the next 8 hours. How wonderful to be with like-minded friends and colleagues after such a long break.
In theory had we not met the deadline, we might have been exempt from the ‘rule of 6’ given the outdoor nature of the tour or – even more appropriately – given its educational content. There is no denying that the 8 hours were jammed packed with information. Unlike previous bike trips, the Chapter was finally able to offer 2 HSW credits as part of the total 7 LUs (2 more than advertised) for continuing education.
As customary with a tour led by architect and historian, Ben O’Looney, architectural history was integrated with the social and economic background, so that the whole riverscape was connected in time and space. There were several themes interlinking the sights (inter alia):
Flood control and flood plain building precautions – tidal locks at tributary rivers, the Thames Barrier itself, Thamesmead surface water networks…
Military ordnance and installations – medieval moats, ammunition manufacture and precautions (and explosive failures), cannon design, ship building, gun embankments, military barges, mulberry harbours…
Innovative industries, factories and conservation – the Erith Corn Oil Works (still operating), the Siemens complex (linking the world with underwater cables), Ford Dagenham plant (at one time the largest in Europe), continuing concrete works (London is still growing)…
River enjoyment – the Thames Path, the Thamesmead Loop, Diller Scofidio Renfros’ walkway (‘The Tide’), riverside sculpture, the Greenwich museums…
Residential growth – New city developments close to industrial sites, urban regeneration through historic conservation, controversial developments on Greenwich Peninsula…
The two vastly different Thames communities of Thamesmead and Woolwich Arsenal merited special attention.
Thamesmead mainly consists of social housing built from the mid-1960s onwards on former marshland, designed with an intent to solve the area’s social housing problems. Futuristic ideas included linking walkways, flood control measures and lakes and canals used as a calming influence.
Since 2000, attempts have been made to overcome the problems with the original concept – such as the lack of community amenities and a cohesive centre. We found Thamesmead – with its bike route ‘loop’ and modern looking housing blocks – surprisingly pleasant as we stopped by a lakeside for lunch and sketching. But the main problem remains its transportation isolation - you seemingly cannot get there from anywhere.
Woolwich Arsenal on the other hand is blessed with links to everywhere and more obvious unban amenities. Not only is there Thames Clipper access, but it is also served by the DLR, National Rail and – awaiting completion – an Elizabeth underground connection.
The riverfront’s wide avenue of historic, well conserved buildings gives a unique feel of openness and charm to the thriving town.
The other side of biking enjoyment is – of course – the hard work. We ended up at Greenwich too late to enjoy the museums, but not too late to enjoy the refreshment potential of the Cutty Sark pub.
For those not familiar with Ben O’Looney – who teaches architecture for New York University’s London programme and leads architectural River Tours for Open City – check out his sketching video made for the Illuminated River Foundation HERE. Perhaps a future sketching session with Ben sans bike tour might be on the cards…
Follow the route via the ‘slide show’. Pictures contributed by all the AIA Chapter Board member participants: Etain Fitzpatrick, Lorraine King, Maria Loring, Alex Miller, Chris Musangi, Katharine Storr, Ecehan Top plus guests.
Written by Lorraine King, AIA