AIA CONTINENTAL EUROPE CONFERENCE / Sofia, Bulgaria – Ancient Places in a Modern World

View from the Conference hotel of government buildings with the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral in the distance and a yellow brick boulevard in the foreground.

There must be some architects who prefer not to travel, who relish their home grown attractions, and perhaps - as all architects aspire to do - even add to them.  But there is also another group of architects that delights in exploring unfamiliar places, venturing outside comfort zones, trekking across the world, seeking new experiences.   Some of these architects no doubt thoroughly research their destinations prior to arrival so they can quickly comprehend it.

However, this article is dedicated to an even more select group of intrepid, trekker architects - those AIA members who love to explore, but who arrive at a new destination without even the faintest idea of what they are about to experience.

Sixty or so such architects took it in good faith to visit Bulgaria for the 2024 October AIA Continental Europe Conference.  Many of them registered on the understanding that they would be served a programme of iconic buildings, dramatic landscapes, generous food and even better camaraderie - all organised by others for their effortless consumption. 

Fortunately, the conference organisers were up to the task.  Any AIA conference organisation is not at all easy, but it helps satisfy the vague expectations of the unprepared when the destination is one of Europe’s ‘best kept secrets’.  Perhaps WHY Bulgaria has remained a secret can be found in its complex and difficult history.

The span of Sofia’s history is manifest in the range of its architectural styles. A 4th century church cohabits with the early 20th century mineral baths (now a museum).

Ancient drinking fountains supply the Sofia inhabitants with mineral water, while monuments to 19th century revolutionary heroes overlook busy squares.

Bulgaria’s history began with the Thracians, then moved on to the Romans and Byzantines.  After a period of Bulgarian wealth as a strong European power during intervals in the 8th to 10th and the 12th to 13th centuries, it was subjected to Ottoman rule starting in the late 1300s.  The country achieved limited autonomy in the mid-1800s, but then local and world wars brought another period of decline and chaos. After being on the losing side in both WWI and II, it fell into the Soviet sphere until the 1990s. Bulgaria finally became a member of the European Union in 2007.  

However, to understand Bulgaria’s cultural identity - and the otherwise seemingly long ‘gap’ in its architectural legacy from Byzantine/ Early Medieval to Baroque - one disastrous historical period must be more fully acknowledged.  Through neglect and isolation under 500 years of Ottoman rule, a once great medieval power missed the Renaissance, the Great Ages of Exploration and Scientific Discovery, the Enlightenment and the Industrial Revolution.  Meanwhile, its population sheltered away in small, difficult to access towns and mountain villages.

For those who are serious about history and even more serious about a more detailed history, please check out as a bare minimum Wikipedia HERE. There is no shame in researching a destination’s history after one’s departure.

Thursday  Bulgaria is now determined to regain its place in the modern world and enthusiastically welcomed the AIA CE Conference at an evening reception – with local musicians (all music credits can be found at the end of the article) – held in the Bulgarian Union of Architects. 

The US Embassy Cultural Attaché, Eric Brassil and the CEO of ‘Foundation America for Bulgaria’, Nancy Schiller, both greeted the attendees.  Local dignitaries making presentations included the President of the Bulgarian Institute of Architects, Arch. Petar Dikov, and the former Minister of Regional Planning, Arch. Belin Mollov.  Elizabeth Chu Richter, FAIA, the 2015 AIA National President, was a surprise guest at the event.

An unprecedented letter written on behalf of the President of Bulgaria, Rumen Radev, and read out at the reception, underlined the national importance given to architectural recognition:  ‘I am confident that this conference will make Bulgaria better known in the world’.  

Event organiser, Rada Doytcheva, FAIA, prepared an overview presentation entitled ‘The Stepping Stones of Culture in Bulgaria’.  Its graphic timeline established Bulgaria’s cultural heritage in relation to Western Europe and Mediterranean cultural development and introduced the conference theme – ‘Ancient Places in a Modern World.’

From an image loving architect’s perspective, ‘Stepping Stones’ puts Wikipedia’s history in its place.  See HERE.

Event organiser, Rada Doytcheva, FAIA; and guests, Arch. Petar Dikov, President of the Bulgarian Institute of Architects (SAB); Elizabeth Chu Richter, FAIA, 2015 AIA National President; and Eric Brassil, Cultural Attache US Embassy in Bulgaria, greet the audience. 

Sitting with the AIA CE audience, other dignitaries, Nancy Schiller, CEO Foundation America for Bulgaria, sponsor for the Plovdiv event (front) and Zdravko Petrov, Founder Historic Routes (2nd Row), await their speaking slots.

Friday A morning walking tour of downtown Sofia began along delightful and unexpected yellow brick boulevards and featured Baroque mansions, early Christian and Russian churches, a renovated market (with unexpected entertainment from a world famous choir) plus the great cathedral of Alexander Nevsky.  Keeping its most ancient places alive, Roman ruins have been integrated into the modern city. 

Ruins from the ancient Roman city of Serdica – next to Baroque buildings and distant mosques - are preserved within the modern city.

The afternoon then included a series of presentations on Sofia’s history and growth by local architects and town planners.  Speakers included: Prof. Dr. Arch. Todor Krestev, UNESCO Expert; Arch. Dessi Dimitrova, President Delinear; Dr. Arch. Maria Davcheva, Editor Architectura Magazine.  The later dinner was accompanied by a renowned harpist.

Saturday  The group left Sofia early for a bus ride to Plovdiv, Bulgaria’s second largest city and the oldest city in Europe still functioning.  The visit was in three parts: a tour of the old hill town, a stopover at Plovdiv’s Roman amphitheatre and a visit to ancient mosaics preserved in a modern museum, the Bishop’s Basilica.  

Lectures on the challenges of historic preservation within a modern city – along with a reception and operatic entertainment by State Opera Plovdiv Soloists – were sponsored by Nancy Schiller, who has supported the Basilica from its inception.  The first speaker, Prof. Dr. Elena Kantareva, a world renown scholar and restaurateur, has been credited with spearheading the preservation initiative. 

Other speakers included: Arch. Krassimir Todorov and Arch. Mariana Krachanova, designers of the Bishop’s Basilica museum; Arch. Ilko Nikolov, President Plovdiv SAB Chapter; Dr. Arch. Velina Pandjarova, UACEG Chair Theory and History of Architecture.

It is said that Plovdiv - originally named Philippopolis - rivalled Rome with its seven surrounding hills and its dramatic amphitheatre. Today, it is a UNESCO heritage city.

Old Plovdiv offered steep, cobbled streets and decorative wood houses, while in the modern city centre,
the new Bishop’s Basilica museum has been built to protect and display the early Christian structure and its extensive mosaics.

AIA CE traditionally holds a Gala Dinner on Saturday night.  Not only were the guests regaled with a violin and harp duet, the event organisers were celebrated and the winners of CE’s rejuvenated Design Awards were also announced.

Sunday  AIA Architects were given a hint on what to expect at the Rila Monastery – another UNESCO site, several miles from Sofia - through conference literature.  However, the attendees were unprepared for the full drama of the site once they walked through the entrance arch.  Their awe generated the best photography of the conference as shown in the slideshow below. 

After a lengthy stay at the monastery, the return trip to Sofia included a stop at the Natural History Museum, housed in a Soviet era government building.  The historical collections were fascinating, while the unusual building became another unexpected treat.

Through the arch Into a dramatic world of stripes, colour and mountain vistas.

The Soviet grandeur in the former Parliament defied categorisation, and almost overwhelmed the History Museum’s treasures.

Monday Extension Day  For those who wanted more – and there was a full busload who did – the extra Extension Day took a long trip north towards the Romanian border to Veliko Turnovo, the ancient capital of Bulgaria in the days of its pre-Ottoman prime.  It is still a major city with a dramatic setting – the city of a thousand windows and the one Tzarevetz fortress.

Multiple viewpoints generously inserted in the townscape by the local city planners expose dramatic vistas of Veliko Turnovo, built around sharp river bends.

A wine tasting lunch with the mayor and a series of lectures and discussions led by local architects ended the day and the conference.  Speakers included: Dipl. Ing. Nikolay Nikolov; Dr. Arch. Petar Nikolov; Arch. Stefan Conev, President of SAB chapter; Arch. Radomir Dankov.

The event organiser, Rada Doytcheva, FAIA,celebrated her birthday immediately after the conference. The birthday card by attendee, Dominique Tomasov AIA, from Barcelona, expressed the sentiments of all.

The Sofia Conference Programme is included HERE. Additional information - including Presenter Notes - on the Bulgaria event and also on past and future AIA CE conferences can be found on the AIA CE website HERE and HERE. These international conferences are a bargain and the Continuing Education Credits are significant.

The 2025 AIA CE April Conference in Cork, Ireland, will be co-hosted by AIA CE and AIA UK – a welcome joint effort.

Written by L D King, AIA

On behalf of AIA Continental Europe and AIA United Kingdom

FURTHER CREDITS:

Event Organisation Team: Rada Doytcheva FAIA, Conference Chair; Sasha Doytcheva, Architecture MA student RCA London; Jina Son, Humna Farid and Michael Ocejo, RADA Architects (www.rada-arch.com); Ray Spano, AIA, AIA CE France Director; Irene Reidy, AIA CE Administrator; Eli Hantova, SAB Union of Architects of Bulgaria (https://bularch.eu/); Desi Dimitrova, Delinear (https://delinear.bg/).

 Event Planner and Event Managers: Daniela Nakova, Tempora Travel (www.temporatravel.com); Manager Violeta Milusheva, Director, and Deni Peeva, Events Manager Intercontinental Hotel (www.intercontinental.com/sofia). 

Special credits: Svetoslav Stankov, Consul General of the Republic of Bulgaria in Chicago (https://www.mfa.bg/en/embassies/usagc3/1930).

Photographs: All photos by Conference attendees, and also by Ivo Oreshkov (https://oreshkov.bg/).

Music: Music played a special part of the programme and the references here are included at the special request of Rada Doytcheva to encourage further familiarization with Bulgarian culture:

Day One          Opening Reception

Fanny Koutzarova, Piano and Ventzislav Trifonov, Clarinet

See HERE.

Day Two          Ulpia Serdika Ruins

TE DEUM ADORAMUS Women’s Chamber Ensemble

See HERE /HERE/ HERE.

                           Dinner “Pri Orlite”  (With the Eagles)

Angela Madjarova, Harp

Day Three        Plovdiv at the Bishop’s Basilica

State Opera Plovdiv Soloists: Evgenia Ralcheva, soprano, Vera Girgonova. soprano, Victor Ibrishimov, Alper Unluturk / Liliana Barzeva (introductions)

See HERE.

                          At Gala Dinner at the Intercontinental

Denitza Dimitrova, Harp and Ivan Penchev, Violin

See HERE.

AIA CONTINENTAL EUROPE MARCH 2024 ‘MINI CONFERENCE’ / Bologna

Given the success of AIA Continental Europe’s two 2023 Conferences – Sicily in the Spring and Chinon in the Fall – it was disappointing to discover AIA CE had nothing planned for Spring 2024.  It looked like waiting for the Sofia Conference in October was going to be a wearisome experience…

But AIA CE is a chapter with multiple, regional sections, and the Italian Section - with a plethora of enticing cities just awaiting a chance to show off - came to the rescue with its own ‘Mini Conference’ this March.  It was only two days, promised only 10 HSW continuing education units and signed up only 25 architects, but due precisely to this smaller scale and relaxed atmosphere, it was a learning experience packed with a great deal of FUN. 

Bologna was once described as the ‘City of Towers’.  Alas – the towers have been falling by the wayside, and first impressions found instead that Bologna was a ‘City of Porticos’.  Or should that be ‘City of Extended Porticos’, or maybe ‘City of Colonnades’, or even ‘City of Arcades’?  Let us not quibble; the citizens of Bologna call them porticos without hesitation, and even UNESCO celebrates the term. They are everywhere.

Also, the citizens of Bologna being practical people without a local source of marble paved their porticos with cheap, durable terrazzo.  However, for some reason no one refers to Bologna as the ‘City of Terrazzo’.  Along with the porticos, terrazzo is everywhere, and the combination works exceedingly well.

To its enthusiastic visitors – including those not burdened with an architectural perspective - Bologna is unequivocally the ‘City of Food’, and the Mini Conference organisers capitalised on this; first, with a ‘Historical Walking & Food Tour’ ending in a ‘Wine & Food Tasting’ and, second, with a sponsored luncheon/lecture the next day in one of Bologna’s most popular seafood restaurants. 

As excellent as the food was, the Mini Conference was not without serious content.  The event organiser, Morgan Danner AIA, described her work in expeditionary construction based at the Naval Facilities Engineering Systems Command (NAFAC) in Naples.    

To paraphrase her, expeditionary construction is, ‘construction that is for expeditious purposes in assisting military operations or emergency response teams in forward deployed environments; environments usually remote or austere in location, or have been disrupted by war, crises, manmade or natural disasters, or undergoing civil unrest’.

Whereas one might expect military operations to require cost effective design, superior logistics and expedited construction, Danner’s emphasis on applying the same criteria to disaster relief and emergency responses was a satisfying diversion that earned instant respect.  

Other speakers included Marc Di Domenico AIA speaking on behalf of one of the event sponsors, the Institute of Design International, established by Domenico in Florence.  AECOM, another event sponsor (and consultant to NAFAC), also spoke on how it approached sustainability issues in its projects. 

A highlight of the weekend was a tour entitled ‘The Red City with its Porticos and Stairs’, which reached parts of the city still undiscovered by the attendees.  Bologna, in addition to its towers, porticos, terrazzo and food, has been a historic ‘City of Learning’ and remains a university town complete with both modern and ancient libraries and laboratories as well as an impressive catalogue of scientific discoveries.  

While the façade of Bologna’s Basilica of San Petronio in the city’s main piazza remains strangely unfinished due to city and papal rivalries dating back centuries, architects have been proposing solutions for its completion since the Middle Ages. 

Their submittals are kept in a special room in the Basilica that was opened for the group’s architectural inspection.  Seeing a Palladio competition drawing was an extra special treat, although his plan was too faint to capture in the photograph.

If you are not aware of AIA CE’s conferences and regional events but are looking for a user-friendly way to earn continuing education units while indulging in a European city break, look them up on AIA CE’s website HERE.  These international conferences are a bargain, and AIA UK members are always welcomed.  

Written by L D King, AIA

All Photos by L D King, AIA (unless noted otherwise). Late change - the original ‘Leaning Tower of Bologna’ photo now replaced with one by Royce Lanier AIA. Other Bologna tower pictures offered as replacements are included in the slide show below.  Photos by Lorraine King AIA, Royce Lanier AIA, Sergio Danese AIA and Rada Doytcheva FAIA.

The 2nd and last wine / food tasting of the long weekend with lingering attendees.  Photo by the waiter!

Continental Europe’s 5-8 May 2017 Conference: Treasures of the French Riviera

Last October, the AIA Continental Chapter held its bi-annual conference in North Cyprus.  This May, it followed up the Mediterranean theme with a conference in the south of France – but, from the start, the country differences could not have been more evident.  Even the economy bus from Nice airport to Menton could not avoid the glamorous French coastline, teeming with residences and hotels of all sizes and styles from the merely functional to the Grimaldi inspired. Tourists thronged the streets of Monaco as it prepared for its upcoming Grand Prix.   The Mediterranean simply sparkled while millionaire yachts bobbed about and looked bemused by all the fuss. 

So what - amongst all this hustle and bustle - had Continental selected as its own particular take on “Treasures of the French Riviera”? Well, Menton itself for a start.  Nicknamed the "Pearl of France", it proved a quieter, gentler antidote to Monaco with  an historic old town reached by steep stairs and a long line of accessible beaches.  Its modern building of note - the Cocteau Museum (architect Rudy Ricciotti) – hosted the opening reception. 

Menton welcomes the AIA at the Cocteau Museum – Photo: Lorraine King, AIA

The first full day of the conference was devoted to Cap Modern and Eileen Gray’s modern Villa E-1027 (familiar to followers of the UK Chapter’s movie nights from its showing of “Price of Desire” last year).  Attendees were lectured on the history, significance and renovation works at Cap Modern and given a private tour of Villa E-1027 plus Le Corbusier’s nearby “cabanon”, work hut and holiday cottages.   Despite the cold and wet weather (that promise of the sparkling Mediterranean not having held up overnight) the site with its memories of past personalities could not help but intrigue.    

Instead of exploring wet balconies and roof tops, the bad weather encouraged a closer look at Gray’s surprising interiors, furniture and artwork – Photos: Lorraine King, AIA and Michael Lischer, FAIA

A ray of sunshine got through for Corbusier’s colorful holiday cottages – Photo: Michael Lischer, FAIA

As brilliant weather returned for the second day, the conference progressed to three extraordinary gardens of the Riviera – the Val Rahmeh Botanical Garden and the Serre de las Madone Gardens (landscape architect Laurence Johnston) both in Menton and the Hanbury Gardens across the border in Italy.  

The third day saw the departure from Menton and took the group to two further treasurers.  The Matisse Chapel was an unexpected delight – a little space of pure joy and light. The Fondation Maeght (architect Josep Louis Sert) housed an extensive modern art collection, but its prime charm was the building itself it its garden setting, including the renowned Labyrinth of Miró.

The Fondation Maeght and Labyrinth of Miró at– Photos: Lorraine King, AIA and Michael Lischer, FAIA

The list of personalities influencing the venues was long and strong – Architects Eileen Gray , Le Corbusier and Josep Louis Sert; English gardeners Sir Thomas Hanbury and Laurence Johnston; French artists and designers Jean Cocteau, Joan Miró and Henri Matisse – and gave the conference a feel for cultural as well as architectural treasures.

The Menton conference was organized by CE members Isabel Meinecke, Int’l Assoc AIA, and Ray Spano, AIA, with assistance from several other CE members.  There were 16-17 CEUs on offer, including 4-6 HSW units, enjoyed by the 5 AIA UK attendees.

The next CE Conference will be held in Prague, Czech Republic, 5 – 9 October 2017.  This conference will be a larger event held in conjunction with the International Region and attendance is expected to reach capacity early.  If you are interested in attending, you are advised to register as early as possible to avoid disappointment.

Written by: Lorraine King, AIA

CONTINENTAL EUROPE CONFERENCE: Barcelona, the Compact City

Continental Europe’s long history of holding bi-annual conferences in different host cities started in Paris in 1996, when the International PIA and the CE Chapter met for a weekend series of tours, seminars and lectures interspersed with lunches, dinners and other networking opportunities. Thanks in large part to the event organiser – Françoise Vonier, the architectural journalist and “activist” – the Paris Conference was a tremendous success.

The second CE Chapter conference was held in 1997 in Barcelona, where that successful mix of edifying educational and amicable social events was perfected into a pattern that – with adaptations and variations - has held to this day. What better way is there to earn Continuing Education Units than by visiting in-depth a beautiful, historic city with good friends and local historians, planners and architects as cultural chaperones?

Over the 14-18 April 2016 weekend, the Continental Europe Chapter conference was again held in Barcelona - its forty-first conference since 1997. As well as catering to CE Chapter members, the opportunity to re-visit Barcelona and see how it has evolved was also taken up by multiple US-based friends of Continental Europe - including Robert Ivy FAIA, Chief Executive Officer, and Tom Vonier FAIA, President Elect, of AIA National.

Several UK Chapter members also attended and were able to strengthen bonds with Continental Europe. Lester Korsilius FAIA, International Region Secretary, and Robert Rhodes AIA, IR Zone Representative, were also able to liaise with the International Director, Steven Miller FAIA.

Past AIA UK Chapter Presidents - Lester Korsilius FAIA (with Heather Korsilius); Lorraine King AIA; Robert Rhodes AIA (with Maria Jose); and Liz Waters AIA - attend the Barcelona Conference

The programme included several overview lectures with tantalizing titles such as “A Sectional Palimpsest of Barcelona”, and “Architecture Remembrance and Transformation.” Architect Benedetta Tagilabue’s lecture - rather prosaically entitled as “Social Urban Regeneration” - was in fact a highly spirited account of her work with partner Enric Miralles, touching briefly on the Scottish Parliament, but – at its best - describing the background and rational for Barcelona’s Mercat de Santa Caterina, with its vegetable inspired roof colours.

Benedetta Tagilabue’s and Enrico Miralles’ Mercat de Santa Caterina

Other lectures were given by local Architects involved in specific projects in different parts of the city that were then followed by building or site tours. These lecture/tours included new-build projects at major developments in Plaça Gloiries and District 22@, plus small scale interventions in older neighbourhoods. After a technical explanation of the Barcelona Roca Gallery’s unique glass wall, a cocktail break was hosted by AIA Continental Europe sponsor, Laufen – which is also an AIA UK sponsor.

The Canopia Urbana at the Plaça Glories Flea Market (left) and the glass wall of the Barcelona Roca Gallery (right)

Historic preservation and renovation work were investigated at the Museu Maritim and Born Market. The recently renovated hospital complex of Sant Pau was the magnificent venue for the Saturday morning lectures, garden tour and lunch.

The Hospital Sant Pau

Special features of the Continental Europe Conferences are the sponsorship lectures and presentations, particularly those of local sponsors. The Collegi d’Arquitectes de Catalunya – the local architectural professional organisation - opened its archives for a special viewing of original Catalan architectural drawings. In her lecture “Places and Horizontal Surfaces of Barcelona”, architect Mariona Aguilera from Escofet, highlighted Barcelona’s unique paving tiles and her company’s current and historical work in architectural concrete and stone.

The Saturday night Gala Dinner is the highlight of any CE conference. This year’s dinner was held in Mies van der Rohe’s original - but relocated - Barcelona Pavilion from the 1929 World Exposition. The Pavilion has lost nothing of its modernist allure in the intervening 87 years and provided a spectacular backdrop for the AIA dinner.

Photo credit: AIA Gala Dinner at the Barcelona Pavilion, 16 Apr 2016, Rebecca Ryburn

Special reference should be made to the conference organiser, Sophia Gruzdys AIA NCARB (with help from Dominique Tomasov Blinder AIA and Thomas Valentine Groner). All in all, the conference generated a grand total of 18 CEUs along with many memories of good friends, brilliant weather and fantastic architecture.

The next CE conference – to which AIA UK Chapter members are granted reciprocal CE membership rates – will be held from 29 September to 2 October 2016 in Girne, North Cyprus.

Author: Lorraine King AIA